#Halogen vs hid draw generator

It produces more candlepower (lumens) of light per watt of electrical energy, and the light color is (supposedly) better - although there are different types (more yellow, more blue etc.). There is no such thing as too much wire - use 10 gauge for any distance with a big load on it. All of these really need a relay and big wiring.

#Halogen vs hid draw generator

If you run 2 × 100 watt halogens, you'll have the same problems for generator output and battery draw as running 2 × 100 incandescents or 200 watts of anything else (stereo amp, air conditioning). The lamps that require big changes are HID, which is completely different and $$$. The pre-1956(?) 6 volt cars converted to 12 volts have fewer problems, since all the wiring gauge is heavier, and running 12 volts through it requires nothing - the wire is more than you need. LED bulbs will last for anywhere between 50,000 and 100,000 hours before they have to be changed. A halogen bulb will generally last for around 2,000 hours before it burns out and needs to be replaced. If adding 2.3 amps sets your harness on fire there was already something very wrong with it. While halogen bulbs in car headlights are easier and cheaper to change, they also need to be changed much more often. If the original 1956(?)-* 12 volt incandescent lamp was 35 watts (12.8 volts × 2.75 amps) and you replace it with a 50 watt halogen (3.9 amps), the individual wires have to handle another 1.15 amps each, the switch gets another 2.3 amps. Wattage has no direct connection with light - that depends on the construction of the bulb, which is why fluorescents are more efficient than incandescents for home use. The thing that will cause problems is the difference between the rated wattage (electrical use) of the halogen compared to the original bulb. However: 'halogen' has nothing to do with current draw, wires blah.

As was said, halogen is available both as a direct replacement (sealed beam) and a bulb and element.